01 / ABOUT THE PLACE
About this place
Corn blancmange is paired with dashi and fig jelly. At Ito, French-inspired ideas appear in dishes that still hold to the foundations of Japanese cuisine, from dashi and soup to rice. One visitor singled out the blancmange, where the sweetness of corn meets the savoury depth of dashi, with uni adding richness.
A dish of Miwa somen brings together Manganji peppers, red-footed prawns, tomato, basil, anchovy and cheese. One visitor described the noodles as springy, with basil fragrance, the saltiness of anchovy and the richness of cheese, yet a finish that did not feel heavy. It is a looser, more inventive take on somen than serving it simply with dashi, while still letting the noodles hold their own.
For another visitor, the highlights of a lunch course were grilled beef and the final rice course. The beef was served rare and described as meltingly tender; the freshly harvested rice, cooked in a Shigaraki-yaki kamado, was another favourite. A separate account describes a different course ending with miso-marinated horse mackerel grilled over charcoal, served with rice and salmon roe. After the French-inspired touches, the return to fish and rice is part of the progression to look forward to in Ito’s kaiseki.
Drinks listed to accompany the meal include Champagne and red or white wine by the glass, as well as sake, shochu and whisky. Reservations are available for both lunch and dinner, and are recommended.
